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Image Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli

THE PHILOSOPHER, DESIGNER AND VISIONARY REDEFINING LUXURY

Ancient roots and utopian futures dovetail in Brunello Cucinelli’s template for luxury

Brunello Cucinelli is stacking up some serious accolades. The luxury Italian brand was the rumored go-to for Steve Jobs, equipping the tech pioneer with his trademark black polo neck fine cashmere sweater. Since then, Cucinelli has continued to dress the world’s one-percenters, who consider the upscale knits (which take two months to make) and superfine unstructured suiting as exceptionally luxurious. But customers can also be assured that garments are made with sustainable values at the heart of the brand.


The business started in seedling form more than 40 years ago, as Cucinelli set about making 53 vividly hued cashmere sweaters that became a sell-out in northern Italian boutiques. The rainbow range felt new in a landscape dominated by tasteful neutrals. “I felt like Alexander the Great,” says Cucinelli of the early success that led to him forming his eponymous company in 1978. Now, with men’s, women’s and lifestyle lines, Cucinelli employs over 1,300 people, many of whom work from the company’s HQ in the medieval hamlet of Solomeo, part of the verdant Umbrian province known as the “green heart” of Italy.

Image Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli

The enterprise is a study in visionary business. Sixty-something Cucinelli, who maintains a majority stake in the company, strives to work with the best yarns, the most innovative methods and the most content workforce. To that end, the billionaire has restored Solomeo, investing in community arts spaces from 2008 (including the Cucinelli Theatre, an arts forum and academy), repurposing outhouses as manufacturing units and planting the surrounding land with orchards, vineyards and olive groves.

Image Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli

“I dream about a form of humanistic modern capitalism with strong ancient roots,” he writes in the brand manifesto. These ancient roots include family values, personified here by Cucinelli’s daughters Carolina and Camilla, who work at the company. Cucinelli pays his employees about 20 per cent more than the manufacturing industry average, and donates 20 percent of his company’s profits to the Brunello and Federica Cucinelli Foundation, set up in 2010 to support learning as well as protection of the land and its monuments. And in true Italian tradition, staff are given 90 minutes to eat lunch, which is made from local produce brought in from the fields and groves.

Image Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli

The ancient roots also span the sourcing of the finest yarns, from Mongolian goat herdsmen, to dyeing, spinning, knitting and finishing. Cucinelli’s designs aren’t necessarily trendy but they’re relevant, refined and gently evolve season by season. Jacket-style cardigans, shirt-style knits, water-resistant cashmere blazers with utility patch pockets, zip-up turtlenecks, rib sweaters and matte nylon down vests are at the core. Autumn’s colours span nutmeg, latte, charcoal, navy and almond — tones that happily merge into existing wardrobes. You can imagine wanting to collect pieces. The tactility makes the garments infinitely huggable, yet they remain sufficiently smart for business affairs.


“I’d like to live in a world where not everything boils down to mere profit,” says Cucinelli. “Money is valuable only when it is spent to improve man’s life and growth, and this is the end that I struggle to achieve.”

2019-09-25 00:04:00.0