Known for iconic casual-suited style, Bruce Pask, Men’s Fashion Director of The New York Times’ T Magazine, talks tailoring, tips and fit, fit, fit…

Describe your style…

I suppose it’s quite typically American. I’m casual, with sportswear pieces and jeans getting a lot of play, but almost always mixed with a softly tailored jacket. It all feels quite natural and is never really too considered. It’s very much a uniform, with each day just a slight reconfiguration of the day before.

How can we dress like you?

Balance is the key. Mix dressy with casual, jeans with a tailored jacket, crisp with wrinkled, 1950s Americana with a tailored classic shoe. I like an unconstructed jacket with a pressed white shirt, a patterned bandana pocket square, and a cuffed jean.

How does it feel to be revered by street-style bloggers, who love snapping you?

I’m consistently flattered with the attention, especially considering that I don’t spend large amounts of time planning my wardrobe each day. All the photographers are quite kind and I’m happy to be able to share the pictures of me at work or at the shows with my family back home. They get the biggest kick out of it, I think. I would like to think that the style I represent is quite true and honest to me, and that it all looks very natural and not forced.

What are five style tips on mastering modern tailoring?

• Balance is key. Wear a softly wrinkled, unconstructed jacket with a pressed shirt and pant, or a tailored jacket with worn-in jeans or khakis.
• Fit is also important. I like my jackets snug. A nicely fitted jacket will always look more flattering.
• When a suit is more tailored, a bit dressier, I prefer to cuff the pant, usually by 1.25 inches, for a more George Peppard 1960s look. It works best with a more slender or straight-legged trouser.
• Right now, I’m very much into unconstructed, double-breasted jackets worn in a casual way. Fabric is important here: I prefer washed cotton or other, more casual fabrics.
• Lastly, I love all the softly tailored, unconstructed suit and sports jackets out in the market now. I like the soft shoulder’s snug fit and the drape of unlined or half-lined jackets. It’s very dressed up, but not uptight.

Tell us more about your views on a snug-fitting jacket…

As a slightly smaller-than-average person, it makes me feel like I am filling the jacket. I’m not saying that a jacket should be too small or shrunken, but I really do think that here in America, we have an epidemic of men who think that their masculinity is tied to their jacket size. They buy a size larger, and then swim in it, with their neck looking smaller because the jacket is oversized and the shoulders are too big.

What rules do you have on accessories with tailoring?

• I think shoes are key. I prefer chunkier traditional welted shoes like brogues and wingtips, as well as plain lace-ups with heavier leather soles. They give a good foundation to a look.
• I like traditional watches and absolutely cannot leave the house without mine.
• I am also very much into wearing casually folded or puffed look pocket squares with jackets, especially when the outfit is quite casual.
• I like slender ties and prefer them in simple dark solid colours. Tie bars can be nice, but can look a bit costume-like.

What are you loving right now?

At the beginning of summer, I bought a beautiful navy, washed cotton, double-breasted jacket and I still wear it everywhere. It’s the perfect mix of dressy and casual, comfortable and tailored, unexpected yet traditional. I wear it with T-shirts and shorts, and I also wore it with a tuxedo pant, shirt and bow tie to the Tony Awards. I love its versatility.

What style advice do you have for modern men who do not wear suits?

Just start trying on different jackets in a store. It’s the only way to demystify the process and become more comfortable with the idea of wearing one. Go to a store that seems to suit your style. Tailored clothing has many moods and looks and you just have to find the mood that suits you (pun not intended). Start by wearing a jacket in the simplest way, with a basic white shirt and maybe a jean or trouser you often wear. As you grow more comfortable and experimental, move on from there. But, again, fit is key.

And what about tips for modern men who wear suits every day?

Fit, fit, fit. When trying jackets on, go for a size smaller, just to make sure the size you’re buying is best. You’ll easily see in the mirror which jacket looks best. You don’t need to wear a tie with every suit. An open shirt with a pocket square can be just as dressy and a bit more fresh. And lastly, try the versatility and experimentalism of sports jackets, which can be paired with jeans and different kinds of trousers.