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Prabal Curung AW14 Runway
New York, New York
In a nutshell - city coats, cosy knits and mid-calf skirts.
The Lane Crawford front row report from the Autumn/Winter 2014 shows.
By Harriet Quick
Victoria Beckham
NEW YORK, NEW YORK
The front row report from the Big (snow) Apple.

While averting frostbite was a concern for fashion folk in a snow-clogged Manhattan, the extreme weather proved a good primer for imaginatively testing out the new Autumn/Winter styles. It proved a season of severity not just in climatic conditions but in the new linear, strident attitude of fashion. The hair styles might be gelled back and harsh, the settings angular and urban but it was all carried off with America’s sense of ease. Pragmatism, after all, is in this nation’s DNA.

“It’s all about a beautifully tailored coat - a cozy slightly oversized sweater with a soft mid-calf skirt,” says Lane Crawford’s fashion director, Sarah Rutson. While the promise of those items might not immediately make your heart skip a beat, the allure was in the Bauhaus influenced colour palette where flashes and panels of cobalt blue, ruby red, neon pink and yellow appeared against shades of grey and white. Desire will no doubt be stirred by the hand-crafted textures and finishes that gave knitwear an extra special dimension.

There’s also a feel of DIY. For 3.1 Phillip Lim, that equated to outsize shearling gilets (arms sawn off) worn with flippy jersey skirts and pointy boots; to skater dresses at Proenza Schouler crafted from a patchwork of wools, leather and speckled print; and raw edge hide coats with utility pockets at Alexander Wang. This notion of mismatch or ‘bricolage‘ has its roots in punk but it also reflects our era when looking too over-fashioned or contrived simply does not feel right. It’s all about allowing individuality to shine through a fashion world that has increasingly become a ‘paint by numbers’ formula.

It means that city coat you might add to your wish list is not a plain affair – at J.Crew, it might have basket weave panels or be fashioned with dolman sleeves in a speckled wool at Proenza Schouler or, in the case of Victoria Beckham, be side-fastening with a small dandyish chain. Whatever the detail, it will be a confidence-boosting piece to slip over sarong style silk skirts (Jason Wu) or tailored boy shorts (Alexander Wang).

This was also a season in which women designers thrived as they channeled an instinctive understanding of what works in everyday life and what delivers that important sense of empowerment. The new creative director, Katie Hillier and design director, Luella Bartley – two British friends who are now at the steering wheel of Marc by Marc Jacob's – know about ‘girl power’. They delivered a compelling fusion of lean tailoring (cinched in with Obi Belts); retro-futuristic cycling wear that crossed the gamut from plus fours to dirt-bike styles in the shape of metallic T-shirts and tunics with zippers and slogans like ‘Bunny Hop.’ “Inspired by Badass Girls!” says Hillier.

Victoria Beckham has always been seen as ‘the good girl.’ But her moody collection with its chain detail fastenings and thigh length tunics over slouchy trousers in black or ivory crepe had a radical air. The designer, known for body-con party dresses, suspected that soon we will want to dress up in something less va-va-voom glam, but rather in something more ‘me’ or ‘you.’

All photos by Jason Lloyd-Evans
STREET STYLE
NYC REPORT
First Look
THEORY’S RUNWAY DEBUT

Still under the meticulous hands of Olivier Theyskens, Theory presented its first runway show under a single streamlined name. Theyskens delivered new forms of razor-sharp tailoring and polished perfection, tempting the likes of fashion favourites including Rumi Neely, Bryanboy, Leigh Lezark and Waris Ahluwalia spotted front-row.

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Theory AW14
Theory AW14
Theory AW14
Theory AW14
Theory AW14
2014-02-19 00:09:00.0