Fresh, sunny, charming - that was the spirit of New York Fashion Week as designers embraced Spring Summer. There were star motifs, crisp shirting, gym slips and botanical prints on the runway; ripped jeans and football jerseys on the sidewalk - and parties galore. Fashion folk, post-holiday with big smiles and golden tans, were on exuberant form.
Just like Victoria Beckham. Here’s a designer who never stands still. She delivered cropped tailored trousers, flounced tunics, flirty A-line skirts and sculpted dresses that peeked white cotton petticoats beneath and had all the grace of a ballerina.
Midriff exposure (demanding very toned abs) proved the look of choice for everyone from teenagers to the irrepressible Diane von Furstenberg who played out the look with cork print flounce skirts and bra tops. She delivered a new version of her iconic wrap dress cut in crisp woven fabric with pockets. This wear-everywhere style will be a big hit next year.
Victoria Beckham
Diane von Furstenberg
Prabal Gurung
Alexander Wang
Prabal Gurung was fascinated with pastel colours - pinks, lilacs, mints, wintergreen - and a 1950s take on elegance. His mid-calf length skirts, draped tops and opera coats had a retro charm that would suit young mademoiselles across the globe. Everyone wants to be on Alexander Wang’s team, and he underscored that with his “street sport” look of cropped crisp shirts, box-pleat minis, gym slip dresses that all had a punchy chic. Alex is hot footing it to Paris to put the finishing touches on his second Balenciaga collection with his muse and right hand, Vanessa Traina.
Joseph Altuzarra’s silk shirts and ribbon-tied slit wrap skirts were so seductive and with recent support from the Kering group, his future looks big and bright. Phillip Lim understands modern wardrobes. He injected volume and prettiness with embroidered organzas and silks, wide-legged cuffed pants and boxy-sleeved jackets. It felt “as good for you” as a freshly pressed juice. Proenza Schouler was in a poetic mood with marble patterned sculpted tops and calf length culottes, and beautiful pleated dress in a patchwork of metallics that were both raw and refined.
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs was on winning form with his upbeat cheerleader high school girl in boxer shorts and bomber jackets for Marc by Marc. Time warping is a Marc Jacobs specialty and with his surfer girls meets Victorian lady, he took us on a journey of discovery. Polynesian print beach shorts came topped with corseted embroidered jackets while bias cut dresses with jet bead fringes were teamed with surf sandals. A lesson in history, and in cool, to close NYC Fashion Week.
All photos by Jason Lloyd-Evans