This AW23 season, there was a tone shift at the menswear shows. The wardrobe is pared down and lines are clean. The emphasis is on volume, which is most fully displayed in motion, an ultra-modern fluid comfort from oversized outerwear to fresh, preppy tailoring. In short, it was an optimistic, dressy season that pointed to wearing clothes for enjoyment.
Suitings In Motion
Just when you thought the classic pea coat was the cleanest and sharpest thing in your current wardrobe, it does, in fact gets even cleaner and sharper this season. At Kenzo, Vuitton and Bianca Saunders, tailoring was boiled down to minimize details. Fundamental to building this neo-tailoring: ultra high-quality, light and springy wools.
It’s not about adding on an obscene amount of layers but rather using what you do add on to create visual intrigue. This approach was seen on full display on the runways as designers used layers to accentuate the silhouettes they wanted to highlight.
British style codes are a pillar of many brand identities, but this season, the U.K. style tropes emerged in Paris and Milan with fuller force. On Bode’s runway, blazers and jackets sported various patterned patchwork, reminiscent of those in London’s archetypal wardrobes.
Shop our edit of menswear staples fresh off the runway.