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menswear
2012-06-06 10:40:00.0
awash in denim
A fashion hero's journey

The peppered history of this humble cotton fabric, which dates back to the 17th century, is subject to much debate but most would agree it's left an enduring legacy as one of the world's most beloved fashion staples. Derived from the name of a fabric known as Serge de Nimes, "denim" also conjures Americana images of cowboys and workers in overalls.

By the 1950s, zippers began to be used and teenagers started using the term "jeans". It wasn't too long before they became associated with teenage rebellion and ultimately banned from many schools and colleges. During the 1960s, when their popularity flourished in Europe and Asia, denim sealed its status as a symbol of youth, ideas, individuality and leisure. The designer jean was perhaps born in the 1980s, when bleached, ripped, skin-tight and faded jeans came into fashion. Now, the wardrobe basic also appears on the streets as often as on catwalk collections in innovative ways.

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OUR WASH GUIDE

Denim washes give jeans their defining characteristics such as the texture or all-important fade factor. Demand has led to the establishment of leading denim laundries in US, Japan, and Italy where the fabric is treated a number of ways, in order to achieve the various desired effects. The most direct technique involves abrasion with stone or sand before or after dying to soften the fabric. Here's a quick guide to some of the techniques:

stone wash

Large rolls of fabric are put into industrial sized washing machines with pumice stones. A lighter denim colour is achieved through a longer rotation of fabric and stones. The denim is then rinsed, softened, and tumble dried.

Sand Blasting

Involves firing sand at the fabric with extreme force and pressure.

Enzyme Wash

Cellulose in the cotton is dissolved by naturally occurring enzymes, which also removes the indigo of the dye. This process causes less trauma to the fabric, resulting in stronger, longer lasting fabric.

Acid Wash

Created by soaking the porous pumice stones in chlorine first, then stone washing as normal. The result is a heavily contrasted finish with unique patterns.

Acne

This Swedish collective is famous for creating 100 pairs of unisex jeans and made an impression for the couture denim collaboration with Lanvin. Despite the brand's evolution of cool over the years, their denim still has an adrogynous appeal.

Available at ifc mall and Canton Road store.

3.1 Phillip Lim

The denim collection reflects the design ideals of its designer's vision of classic attitude with a "slight sense of madness". This season features a fresh approach to the iconic acid wash process.

Available at ifc mall and Canton Road store.

Cheap Monday

Credited for the tight jean phenomenon, this Swedish label caused a sensation with their first design of an unwashed, very tight fitted stretch denim. Its urban edge is just as recognisable as its skull logo.

Available at Times Square, ifc mall and Canton Road store.

Levi's Vintage Clothing

No other brand is as inextricably linked to denim as Levi's. Its Vintage Clothing line features shirts, jackets, pants and chinos from its design archives, dating back to the 1920s and 30s.

Available at ifc mall and Canton Road store.

Scotch & Soda

Part vintage and a little varsity, this Amsterdam-based brand draws inspiration from American and Japanese denim aesthetics.

Available at Times Square, ifc mall and Canton Road store.

PRPS

This New York-based luxury brand of denim manufactures its jeans in Japan using Levi's looms from the 1960s is inspired by denim worn by workers before they became an every day clothing item.

Available at Times Square, ifc mall and Canton Road store.

New denim brands for upcoming A/W'12

  • Blk Dnm
  • Denham
  • J Brand
  • Levis Made & Crafted
  • Naked & Famous
  • Natural Selection
  • Williamsburg

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