When it comes to beautiful, handcrafted shoes, there are few designers whose artistry matches that of Malone Souliers. Here, label founder and cordwainer, Mary Alice Malone, takes a moment to reflect on the process behind her exquisite creations.
What do you believe is the skillset of a great shoemaker?
“Every shoemaker has his or her own unique set of skills, but I believe something that is universal to every shoemaker is the possession of an incredible love for the product, and a serious dedication to their work. As for Malone Souliers, aside from love, our artisans are always prepared to push the boundaries, adding their own take and approach to footwear which achieves a unique and timeless quality. I affectionately call them my 'master' shoemakers.”
Tell us about Malone Souliers’ factory in Italy.
“The factory was established in the early 1920s in Italy. The owner's grandchildren are now running it, still following the same industrial practices established by their grandfather, and their father after him. Uppers are cut by hand and stitched in the large workshop at the back of the factory which is run by the owner's mother. She learned how to stitch them when she was 15! Very much like with my own team, I love to think that my factories are my Italian family. They work very closely with me and do their best to understand the needs of a young, fast-growing footwear brand. I am truly blessed to have been chosen by them to be their partner.”
Can you tell us about the process of making a pair of women's heels?
“In terms of the main manufacturing operations, a pair of Maureen heels, for example, can take up to a week to be made, and there is one person overseeing every single part of the process. Someone is in charge of cutting, another of stitching, and another of mounting – it is the best example of teamwork one could think of. Every single person has to be in sync with their peers and the beauty is that most of our artisans are actually part of the same family!”
Which part of that process is the most challenging from a technical perspective, and why?
“The pattern for the Maureen is very tricky to work with – the complex cut of the vamp requires a special type of stiffener between the upper and the lining. We had to engineer a machine that is able to 'close' the two sides of the vamp, making it a tool exclusive to our factory. This is probably why Maureen is still our bestseller – it is such a unique shoe and you will not find another one like her anywhere!”
What are the most important tools found in Malone Souliers' atelier?
“I would say pen and paper – my team and I draw every single shoe we design, both on paper and on the actual shoe. It is a little old fashioned, but we love to work this way.”