Soft structure, sportswear and retro-tinged influences dominated the Spring Summer 2017 menswear shows, as structured shapes gave way to more relaxed fits, and tracksuits and bomber jackets reigned. “Sportswear and loose, tailored silhouettes were my key takeaways from menswear shows for next spring,” said Caroline Issa, fashion director of Tank magazine. “Typically tailored houses are loosening up, while sportswear brands are getting smarter.”
The runways were filled with outfits that could easily transition from day to night, from boardroom to cocktail bar. “Modern men are busy juggling home and work and everything in between – their wardrobe needs to reflect that,” Issa said. “The runways were filled with clothes they’ll want to wear from work to dinner, and women will want to pick some of the pieces up as well.”
We were excited to see menswear brands from London, Paris and Milan offering versatile clothes that transcend boundaries of time or occasion – clothes that can carry their wearers through a few seasons or more. From lightweight coats and botanical prints, to loose, cropped pants and tracksuit-inspired outfits, we take a closer look at the key trends from this month’s menswear shows to prepare you for next spring.
Travel was a recurring theme for Spring Summer 2017. Prada led the way with its “Wanderlust and Travellers” collection, which included lightweight nylon raincoats and rucksacks. We spotted many holdall totes, perfectly sized for weekend getaways. Gucci’s monogrammed version embodied a classical approach, especially when paired with the house’s vintage-eclectic outfits. We could imagine the luxurious leather and canvas versions at Marni, Giorgio Armani and Neil Barrett styled with everything from formal suits to T-shirts worn while on a long weekend away.
All White Everything
While we see fewer experiments with colour and patterns on men’s clothes than on women’s, there was plenty of both at the shows this month. Amid the pops of colour, brands featured crisp, all-white ensembles for balance and a cleansing of the palette, if you will. The pale grey and white used in Rick Owens’ collection, with its billowing, draping lines, gave it a cloud-like etherealness and smoothed Owens’ usual hard edges. Haider Ackermann’s all-white suit with terrific pleated pants and a silk shirt loosely tucked-in was a chic scene-stealer, while the narrow-fitting white suits at Dolce & Gabbana and Alexander McQueen looked eminently wearable for more formal summer events.
A Case of the Blues
A prevalent colour story for next spring was blue in all its variations – ranging from bleached-out baby blues at Giorgio Armani and Canali, to classic navy at brands including Marni. At Balenciaga, a navy blue jumpsuit with loose legs caught our eye, with the colour emphasising the utilitarian element.
Flora and Fauna
Amidst the utility and sportswear-influenced collections, many brands featured vibrant botanical motifs, which brightened up the catwalks. Never shy with patterns and prints, Alessandro Michele’s Gucci men’s show featured sharp tuxedos with romantic, pink blossoms as well as bolder floral prints in orange and yellow. Haider Ackermann’s botanical prints were painterly, with sketch-like patterns emblazoned on tops and coats. Dries Van Noten’s beautiful silk jackets with botanical prints and Marni’s more graphic florals on shirts, were also standouts.
Track & Field
Even brands known for sharp tailoring and more formal separates couldn’t resist the allure of the 1990s sportswear influence. Ports 1961, for example, featured a capsule collection in collaboration with Everlast that included hoodies caped with the brand’s logo emblazoned across the chest. Neil Barret and Gucci also showcased tracksuits and shorts that played on the retro-sportswear vibe – complete with tube socks.