New Directions

You focus on elevating the foundations of a wardrobe. How do you approach this?
The pillars of a wardrobe are the classic pieces: cotton poplin shirts, tailoring, coats, skirts, dresses and tunics – I seek to give them a twist with functionality and fabrication.

What role does instinct and chance play in the creative process?
I love the idea of capturing the mistakes that happen in the process of designing and fitting, and not polish it too much. It’s about incorporating imperfections while still keeping the element of luxury.

For the debut, you combine slouchy tailoring with movement, asymmetry and bows – what was the vision?
The Autumn Winter collection is about establishing the base for a woman’s wardrobe. I wanted to erase the line between evening and daywear, incorporating elements of workwear as well as sportswear but also working with the best craftsmen from French and Italian factories to achieve the highest quality. We spend a lot of time on fit, exploring how a garment can be worn in different ways.

What pieces have enjoyed longevity in your own wardrobe?
A black Crombie coat, black trousers, white shirts and classic jumpers in navy, black and many shades of grey and a pair of sneakers.

Who are your fashion mentors?
The late professor Louise Wilson taught me a lot about pushing myself creatively and I was really fortunate to train under her at Central Saint Martins. At Cerruti, I learned about fabrics, details and how the industry works; at Lanvin I learned about wonderful craftsmanship of the French ateliers and the seven years I spent at Stella McCartney was another precious time. It was with Stella that I really started to think about the wardrobe in the design process. It was a very “honest” approach, women designing for women.

Describe the new office in Clerkenwell London – where The Face magazine used to be based.
I used to subscribe to The Face in the 1990s when I was still a student in Slovenia, so the space holds meaning for me. The studio is one big open space where we do all the designing and fittings, full of inspiration boards, books, garment samples and a small in-house atelier.