Timeless Tailoring and Taoism / Uma Wang
- Words
- Harriet Quick
- Photography
- Laurent Segretier
Since embarking on her own label in 2009, Uma Wang’s reputation for artisan-crafted, emotive fashion has spread across the oceans. The Shanghai-based designer now brings her poetic vision to menswear with easy tailoring and antiqued fabrics ideal for men who appreciate design with character.
In the pretty courtyard of her showroom in the Marais district of Paris, Uma Wang is hanging out a selection from her debut menswear collection. A long cotton poet’s shirt with a pin-tucked bib front might have walked the streets of Paris in the 19th century; a waistcoat and loose tailored trousers in supple washed jacquard fabric feels of now but also of another time – the rich black, deep aubergine, granite and petrol blue have an intensity of hue that is hard to find.
“‘Men have so many options, it was difficult at first. We started with the fabric, the texture, the feelings and things developed from this,’ says Wang of her softly, softly approach.”
There are supple linens, washed silk and jacquards woven with a Chinese flower pattern and all the fabrics are hand developed exclusively for Wang in Italy. Feeling, instinct and emotion are central to Wang’s design language and her menswear speaks with a noble, yet romantic mood. Her approach is not to push too hard, or hold too tight but allow things to flow like water and take their own path – a philosophy that is central to Tao-ism.
“I’ve always invited people to feel the fabric and discover the brand in their own way rather than employ any bold marketing tactics. And people with the same taste and aesthetic have found the brand, and some also have become good friends,” says Wang, who also listens to desires. “Customers wanted something soft and comfortable but chic to wear at home. I designed striped washed silk pyjamas,” she says pointing to the handsome PJ sets and long, flowing dressing gowns.
Each garment is hung with a fabric pochette and a fabric tag that again underlines the personality of the clothes. The tiny drawstring bags – perfect for a button or a keepsake – are hand-dyed in coffee and the aroma gently permeates the room. Wang’s cats apparently go crazy for the smell.
In our fast-forward, digitally dominated lives, here is a poetic designer who is finding along the journey kindred spirits from far and wide.
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