Emerging Menswear

Photography and Words by HYPEBEAST

Kolor, Attachment and sacai are by no means new brands. Yet these three labels are currently packing a fashion punch, offering up a fresh approach to design.

First up, Kolor. Launched in 2004 by designer Junichi Abe, Kolor has built a loyal following and well-founded reputation off the strength of its forward-thinking materials. Abe is often referred to as the “master of fabrication”, although this doesn’t quite do justice to his creativity. His goal is for textiles to work in unison to strike a balance between materials, fit, form and, ultimately, mood.

Each season, Kolor seems to fulfill an almost art-like aesthetic that communicates less like a traditional runway show, and more like that of a carefully orchestrated musical piece – making the observer feel a mood as opposed to simply viewing a collection of garments.

Meanwhile, sacai’s Chitose Abe’s approach to design is to reinterpret timeless pieces, in new and often unexpected ways. Chitose – who is also the spouse of Kolor’s Junichi – started sacai in 1999, following a tenure working with Comme des Garçons. The brand has since become a true industry favourite, beloved by editors, buyers and bloggers for both its men’s and womenswear. Abe takes classic silhouettes and reworks them in a way that both maintains their original integrity leaves them recognisable, but also establishes a new, innovative, and casual interpretation for the modern man’s wardrobe.

Finally, much like the story of his two counterparts, Kazuyuki Kumagai launched his label, Attachment, in 1998 by combining the experience and expertise he gained working under the famed Issey Miyake for five years. Since its inception, Attachment has been admired for its striking combinations of careful pattern cuts, textured fabrics and tonal colour-blocking that come together in a signature multi-dimensional aesthetic.

The collection is often imbued with a sense of rock-music styling that comes from Kumagai’s own passions, integrating a darker theme with more deconstructed silhouettes.

The powerhouse combination of Kolor, sacai and Attachment’s approach to the menswear market has started a fundamental shift within the ever-changing fashion landscape, opening the world’s eyes to a drastic rethinking of traditional menswear design. As this trio spearhead a new emerging menswear movement, the old saying “good things take time” has never been truer.