First-time visitors to Poland have long tended to shun Warsaw for Krakow – but no more. The Polish capital, which was heavily destroyed during the Second World War, may not have the traditional architecture but it is an upbeat city in the heart of Europe; well connected, welcoming to families and solo travellers alike and increasingly cosmopolitan. The high-rise Palace of Culture and Science, completed in 1955, still looms over the centre but is now flanked by blue skyscrapers. In the summer, café tables spill out into the streets and the party continues in bars along the Vistula River. Venture beyond the city centre and you’ll be rewarded; for an edgier feel, the eastern neighbourhood of Praga, with its post-industrial venues, can now be reached by the metro line under the river. That bank boasts sandy beaches with a panorama of the city skyline and on the opposite shore, a new promenade runs from north to south, easily reachable from the Old Town. You can grab a city bike and continue south along cycle lanes to Wilanow Palace – a former royal residence built in the Baroque style – passing other parks along the way. Warsaw’s growing confidence is manifest in its blossoming culinary, culture and shopping scenes, which blend Poland’s heritage with an openness to international influences. The urban landscape still bears the scars of the past but this is a city looking towards the future.