The Truth About Whitening Separating the fact from the fiction
From rumours of skin whitening products causing cancer to DIY masks concocted with breakfast ingredients, skin whitening is a beauty topic clouded by conflicting claims, exaggerated information and old wives’ tales.
Lane Crawford talks to Hong Kong dermatology specialist Dr. Joyce Tang to uncover exactly what is true and what is false when it comes to one of Asia’s most highly controversial, and confusing, skincare topics.
TRUE
Liquorice is an excellent property to lighten and whiten skin
“True, 10-40% concentration liquorice extract in topical application has been shown to be effective in whitening the skin. However, there are reports of allergic reaction after applying liquorice products.”
It takes a few months to see the effects of whitening products
“True, unless you are have experienced irritation from ingredients, I would say it takes at least three months to see if a general skin toning effect is working for you.”
Lightening products will help eliminate acne scars
“True, but it depends on what type of acne scars. Acne scars can come in depressed scars, post inflammatory erythema or hyperpigmentation. Whitening products might help with the pigmentation, but depressed scars will need professional treatment.”
Some medicines cause dark patches on your skin
“True. For example, birth control pills are one of the known culprits of melasma, blotchy pigmentation on cheeks and foreheads often seen in women.”
If you use multiple other skin products while using skin whitening products, it reduces the whitening product effectiveness
“True, it is possible. There are concerns that increasing the number of potentially active whitening ingredients in one product can reduce the effect of the most potent ingredient by ‘competitive inhibition’, therefore not achieving the maximal benefit from the product.”
FALSE
Rubbing certain foods, such as plain yogurt or citrus juice, onto your skin several times a week will actually make skin lighter
“False. Antioxidants like vitamin C are often used in whitening products, however, for example, vitamin C in citrus juice is not formulated to enhance skin absorption to combat oxidation; therefore the effect is minimal.”
Whitening products makes your skin sensitive to sunlight
“False, whitening product will not make your skin sensitive to, or unsafe in, the sun by itself. However, if you have fair skin it means you have fewer melanin which protects you against UV light, which will make you more vulnerable to sunburn.”
You can’t brighten a dark spot without lightening the surrounding skin
“False, some people can have localised pigmentation problem such as melasma or solar lentigo, and with the right whitening agents the dark spot can be lightened.”
Eating a lot of dark foods – such as soy sauce – makes the skin darker
“False, in fact, soy extract in some skin products may have some whitening effect due to its inhibition of melanosome transfer, but the effect is minimal and reversible.”
Skin whitening products can cause cancer
“False. There is often concern that certain prescription lightening agents like hydroquinone may be carcinogenic. However, it’s been used as a lightening agent for over 50 years with excellent outcomes, and studies worldwide have shown no cancers or damage to internal organs related to the use of it.”
Skin whitening products cause skin to thin
“False – for the most part. Some medication for conditions like melasma might contain a type of steroid, and if used for a prolonged period there is a small potential for a local side effect like skin thinning.”
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