The Lane Crawford Guide to Dress Shoes It may be 2016, but the old adage still holds true – one absolutely can “tell a gentleman by his shoes.”

“It is important to remember that every shoe serves a purpose. The first shoe should be a classic lace-up Oxford. Most people would say in black, but I’m going to say in a nice dark brown calf. I say this because a classic brown calf Oxford can be worn with blue suits, grey suits and lots of different flannels for a work environment. Second, it is also versatile enough to wear with a pair of dark blue jeans so it can serve as a casual option as well – which black can’t.”

“The sole is very important because it completes the shoe with a certain look. Dress shoes should always have leather soles, without question. For the classic Oxford, I would always recommend a single leather sole, which is standard at George Cleverley.

Times have changed though and newer styles of rubber soles have also become more popular. I generally prefer a micro rubber sole or a Vibrum rubber sole for styles that are more casual, like loafers and chukka boots. We use a nice thin and flexible version that makes the shoes light and very comfortable to walk in.

If you wear your shoes a few times a week, then the leather soles should last a few years. When the sole starts to look thin in the centre and is soft to push, it’s time for a new sole. Most good rubber soles last twice as long as leather.”

“Looking after your dress shoes can be very basic. I always recommend putting in your shoetrees when you take off your shoes. This allows them to dry out naturally and keep its shape. It is always a good idea to give them a light brush after its wear. This allows you to remove any excess dirt, which you might have collected from the street. Lastly, I always recommend polishing your shoes with a wax based polish and cream to nourish the leather. This keeps it from cracking and feeds the leather. “

“Good quality laces should last as long as the soles of the shoes. Once the lace becomes thin or you find it is not tying tight enough or becoming loose then it’s time for a new pair. I always recommend having a spare set at home as they can often break at the worst times!”

“With dress shoes, I tend to advise being more conservative; something black or solid is nice. If you’re in a more casual environment then you could wear them with some colour but it’s important to make sure they match well as this can really ruin the look of a nice suit and shoes. On the weekends, I tend to wear loafers with no socks and it looks and feels better if the loafer is unlined.”