The A to Z Guide to Customisation A comprehensive glossary of Made-to Measure terms (MTM) that every man should know
The Panellists: Enzo Magaraci, Sales Director of Isaia/ Nicholas Holt, Regional Director, APAC, John Lobb/ Alessio Lardini, Manager of Creative and Product Development Division, Lardini/ Frederic Gelberg, Made-to-Measure Manager, Lanvin/ Andrea Casavechia , Regional Director, Santoni Asia/ Pascual Blanco, President, Magnanni
As modern gentlemen’s desire for luxury, craftsmanship and personalised service increases, Lane Crawford has gathered some of the finest tailoring brands including Isaia and Lardini, Lanvin and Tomorrowland to shoemakers John Lobb, Santoni and Magnanni to define the ultimate A to Z glossary to Made-to-Measure; ensuring you are speaking with same perfectly made precision as the cut of your suits and shoes.
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Appointment - Book your appointment with the brand’s in-house tailors who travel around the world to do one-to-one measurements with customers.
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Balance - One of the most important notions in MTM is to achieve the balance between the top and the bottom of the body, between the front and the back of the jacket, between inner and outer length of the sleeves.
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Collar - Apart from MTM suits, several brands also offer MTM shirts so you can choose different types of collars according to your style and personality.
Canvas - The canvas used for jackets are of high quality and hand-sewn because it is the foundation of a well structured jacket.
Components - Adapt components to suit your personality. At John Lobb, options of gold, rose gold, anthracite and palladium finishes are available on buckles, providing the opportunity for individual flair as well as refined elegance.
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Details - Set a garment on the road to perfection by paying attention to every single detail. Make it yours.
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Exclusiveness - The privilege of owning a unique product, specially designed and built according to one’s own preferences and body shape, expressing the unique savoir faire and craftsmanship of a MTM brand through its exclusive experience is one that will remain with you for many years.
Eyelet - With some MTM brands such as Lardini, you can choose the colour of the thread used for the eyelets, so try to look at the fine details.
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Fabrics - The beauty of MTM is that you will have a wider range of high-end fabric selection, so indulge and learn about weight gauges and materials, as these are the fabrications that will change the aesthetic and longevity of your suit, shirt or shoes.
Fit - A MTM piece will always perfectly match your proportions or feet measurements, as it is customized to suit your body’s measurements and size.
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Guarantee - For a long-lasting, timeless classic, guarantee yourself a lifetime of wear with discerning choices and a gentle, enjoyable learning curve.
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Handmade - A MTM suit is made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn finishing that is the signature of a garment assembled in the rules of art.
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Individuality - A distinctive sign from those who create, for those who wear
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Know-How - Expert advice and guidance is on hand from the tailors and shoemakers, ensuring every detail is realised to the customer’s specification.
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Lapel - Choose between different types of lapel. The three main types are: notch, peak and shawl lapels.
Leather - Choose from a wealth of full grain leathers and suede options including in MTM shoes for example, John Lobb’s signatures such as the rich patinas of museum calf, uniquely textured grain calf and exotic skins such as crocodile and lizard.
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Measurements - An expert tailor will take all your measurements to create the ideal garment for you that fit you perfectly including your chest size, arm and leg length.
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Neapolitan Details - At Isaia, one can enjoy traditional Neapolitan characteristics including hand-stitched shoulders, buttonholes and meltons.
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Obsession - A keen eye on detail distinguishes all MTM/MTO suits from the rest.
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Personalisation - Choose your own details, whether it be fabrics, leathers, cut, buttons, lapels, or inner lining and many more.
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Quality - The quality of fabrics, linings, supplies and manufacturing contribute to the final quality of a garment.
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Rise - The distance from the middle of the crotch seam of your trouser all the way to the top of the waistband. The rise of the trouser is important, as it determines where the trouser sits on your body and creates the waistline.
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Swatches - The tailor will present you a book with small cuts of fabrics for your selection. These form the foundation with which you can imagine and co-create your MTM suit.
Style - Create your own pair of John Lobb shoes from amongst 100 archival styles from across Oxford, Derby, buckle, loafer and boot styles.
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Tailor - Without a good and experienced tailor the MTM experience would not exist.
Time - The pleasure is amplified by the waiting for the perfect MTM/MTO suit and shoes. The creation of a handmade shoe follows a specific procedure: foot measurement, selection of the shape, of the hides, and of every single detail. From the lasting to the colouring, the construction of a custom shoe can take over two months.
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Uniqueness - Every garment is unique because every customer chooses the personalisation of all the elements with the guidance of the tailor.
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Vent - A vent is a cut or slit in the bottom of a coat, allowing the material to move more easily when being worn. A centre vent is one common option whilst ventless (typically found in Italian tailoring), side or double-vented are others.
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Wearability - The most important aspect is to find the right balance between silhouette and comfort.
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Experience - This unique conversation and co-create moment that you have with the brand’s tailor to discuss your MTM/ MTO preferences.
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Yarn - The strand of spun fibres that is used to weave or knit fabric.