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The China/Milan based menswear label Pronounce, founded by Yushan Li and Jun Zhou, have just moved into a new Shanghai studio space, where their logo is freshly emblazoned on doors. There’s rail upon rail of fashion-forward, impeccable menswear and a team of (mostly) men working in their sample room. A rambunctious little white poodle called Otto runs energetically around, occasionally humping someone’s leg.
“Of course, we want some of our work to be timeless, but we don’t design just for the sake of this,” says Li. “It's more about the feeling, atmosphere or mood. We appreciate that carefree vibe, and aren’t trying too hard.”
The easy-going duo met in London, started the label in 2016, are now showing at London Fashion Week. Plus, last season they opened Shanghai Fashion Week. “You know, designers always love to question their work,” laughs Li, “we always doubt ourselves, so being at Lane Crawford really gives us a 100% boost in confidence and trust.”
Today, that shows in his bold stripe and check outfit, whilst the quieter Zhou is dressed in muted black. It’s their mission to make practical clothing “that combines daily life with more exciting inspirations” such as deconstructed details borrowed from workwear.
Abstract references and interesting cuts formed an early signature, whilst clever bolts of colour catch the eye. Having worked at Zegna, Zhou’s Italian contacts and menswear background from Istituto Marangoni and London College of Fashion brings sophisticated tailoring; and time in Milan keeps him “ahead in new textiles and menswear production developments.” Meanwhile, Li is more focused on “prints, textile details and colour-ways” reflecting the Central Saint Martins alumnus’s stint in LA at Kanye West’s Yeezy.
The pair are studying a book on Thailand’s traditional men’s costumes, as Otto’s pattering feet dart between the two designers who coo over him. Lately, they say, inspiration has come from emojis - “in how they’re becoming their own kind of new classic language that everyone uses,” Li explains.
As cool as the brand might seem, there’s a touch of nostalgia there too. A twist on the classic is at the heart of this label – “but expressed in our own way,” Li adds “for example, we’re looking at this amazing book by Ken Hermann called ‘Flower Men’ featuring portraits of Indian workers at a huge flower market, photographed in bright plumes”. Zhou adds wryly “We’re into books and magazines from 20 years ago, before the advent of social media!”
