AW16
AW16 Newest Names to Know
Introducing the newest names to know and the pick of the collections for the season ahead with Lane Crawford’s Menswear Senior Buyer, Charles Lo.
Sulvam
Having cut his teeth as a patternmaker for Yohji Yamamoto, Japanese designer Teppei Fujita’s debut brand Sulvam - Latin for improvisation - refuses to be labelled. With an emphasis on contemporary tailoring, Fujita has mastered the classic Japanese skill of creating deceptively simple pieces with complex cuts.
Charles says: “When you find a pair of pants with a great fit and cut, everything else is a bonus. These pants from Sulvam are also made from a light wool fabric with the perfect fabric weight for our humid climate. Wear with a boxy white shirt for a confident yet relaxed look.”
Camoshita
Street style favourite and Creative Director of United Arrows, Yasuto Kamoshita, is one of the most influential men in Japanese fashion and is regarded as one of Tokyo’s most stylish. Camoshita began as a personal project, inspired by American Ivy League style and the soft tailored style of Southern Italy. Despite this, Camoshita remains a distinctly Japanese label in both craftsmanship and spirit. Handmade in Japan, the label is known for incorporating bold patterns and textured fabrics in relaxed separates with a distinctively Eastern edge.
Charles says: “The Prince of Wales is a wonderful weave and is a projection of Mr. Kamoshita himself. It goes without saying that with a busy pattern such as this, the plainer the shirt the better.”
Eidos
When it comes to fashion, there could not be more polar opposites than Italian and American styles. But for Creative Director Antonio Ciongoli – former Ralph Lauren alum – it makes complete sense. Taking the best of Italian tailoring and American sportswear, Ciongoli approached ISAIA with his concept for Eidos in 2013 and launched his first season that year. Equal parts rugged and refined, the Autumn Winter 2016 collection illustrates the label’s youthful and versatile nature in a luxurious yet approachable way.
Charles says: “If you’re looking for something less ‘stiff’, the unconventional details in Eidos’ tailoring construction is youthful and different. Pair with a simple sweater and denim or chinos and white sneakers – tailored coats do not only go with tailored looks.”
George Cleverley
With a storefront on London’s Royal Arcade, George Cleverley is a British footwear institution. Representing the best of British style and craft for over 50 years, the label has fitted out some of Britain’s most famous and powerful from Winston Churchill to Alexander McQueen himself. Each pair with its signature “suspiciously square toe shape” is handcrafted in England with Goodyear welted soles.
Charles says: “These iconic dress shoes are the epitome of craftsmanship and are an essential part of any man’s wardrobe. A jersey blazer, simple white shirt, pair of chinos and pocket square is a look that says it all.”
Ghurka
After acquiring a set of wartime campaign gear made for a regimental officer stationed in India at an antiquities auction in the early 1970s, Marley Hodgson founded Ghurka. Named after, and inspired by the soldiers of the Himalayas, the leather label offers rugged elegance and traditional workmanship that results in the inimitable Ghurka patina.
Charles says: “Heritage meets contemporary in Ghurka. This versatile duffle bag is great for a weekend getaway or day trip. The more dapper of gentlemen may consider doubling it as a refined gym bag.”
Wan Hung
The newest menswear name in Lane Crawford’s Created in China programme, London-based Wan Hung Cheung launched his eponymous label in 2014 after graduating from Central Saint Martin’s with a BA in Fashion Print. Originally from Hainan, China, Cheung’s collections explore modernity, innovation and traditional artisanal craft.
Charles says: “Each cube is hand-made by the designer himself so it is a truly special piece. Wear with a fitted white shirt and sharp tailored pants for a sophisticated yet playful vibe.”
