Fashion's monochrome maven continues to forge her own path to modern deconstructionism. Described as timeless works of art, Ann Demeulemeester's understated pieces suggest visual simplicity yet involve complex architectural construction. One of the original and influential "Antwerp Six" graduates of the Royal Academy of Arts, she stands at the forefront of fashion's avant-garde pack. Demeulemeester is known for her technical mastery, edginess and punky femininity sometimes referred to as "gothic". Her brand of slouchy, layered menswear-inspired modernity is a favourite among women with a strong sense of personal style, who disregard passing trends. Since launching her eponymous label in 1985, she is known as a maverick free spirit whose darkly subversive clothes are still considered elegant and chic. As her muse and good friend, the musician Patti Smith puts it: "I can be all rumpled from being on the road, but I'm still in the most beautiful clothes in the world."